Plunge or balcony is one of the questions I'm asked most often in the shop. The two styles can look similar on the hanger, but they fit very differently, and which one suits you depends far more on the shape of your breasts and how your breast tissue sits than on your bra size.
After more than 20 years of fitting, I've seen a style look fantastic on one woman and be completely wrong for another in exactly the same size.
The difference is the shape of the cups and where they sit on your bust. A plunge bra has a lower centre, with cups that angle in towards the middle of your chest, bringing the breasts inwards and forwards. That makes it particularly good under lower necklines.
A balcony bra, also called a balconette, has a higher centre and cups cut more horizontally across the bust, with the straps set further apart towards the outside of your shoulders. In the UK you'll also see balcony bras called half cups, although brands use the terms differently.
Both styles come padded and non-padded, which surprises a lot of customers. A plunge doesn't have to mean lots of padding and a balcony doesn't have to be unlined, so it's the shape you're choosing.
Who suits a plunge bra?
Plunge bras suit more women than you might expect. The angled cups bring the breasts together and give a lovely natural shape, and if your breasts sit close together, the lower centre means there's less bra between them.
There are two occasions when I'd suggest trying something else. If you've lost fullness at the top of your breasts, which is common as we get older or after weight loss, the top of a plunge cup can gape. The bra isn't necessarily too big; there just isn't enough volume at the top to fill that shape. And if your breast tissue is very soft, a plunge may not give you enough containment.
Personal preference matters too. Some customers love plunge bras, while others feel they're going to fall out every time they lean forward, even when the bra fits. If that's how a plunge feels to you, you won't enjoy wearing it, and a balcony may suit you better.
Who suits a balcony bra?
Balcony bras are good if you want more lift from underneath, or if you've lost some fullness at the top of your breasts. The cups give a rounded shape, lifting the bust without pushing the breasts together.
Whether you like that is partly down to taste. Some women prefer their breasts to sit slightly apart, while others are happier with them brought closer together.
When I fit a balcony bra, I always check the straps. Because they're set further apart, they can slip off narrow or sloping shoulders, and if you're forever pulling them back up, you won't enjoy wearing the bra however lovely it looks.
Even for breasts that are shallower at the top, it depends on the individual bra, as some balcony cups are quite open across the top. Try a few before you decide.
How do you know if you're wearing the wrong style?
When a bra doesn't fit, most women assume it's the wrong size. Sometimes it is, but quite often it's the style.
The first thing I check is the underwire. It should sit around your breast tissue, not on it, and nothing should be spilling out anywhere. In a balcony bra, look at the top of the cups and under your arms. Spilling over could mean the cups are too small, but it could also mean the shape isn't right for you.
In a plunge bra, look at how the top of the cups sits against your breasts. If there's a gap, don't automatically go down a cup size, because a smaller cup often causes problems with the underwire. I've written more about this in why your plunge bra doesn't fit.
Don't judge a whole style on one bra either. There's no standardisation in sizing or fit between brands, and two plunge bras in the same size can fit completely differently, so it's worth trying a few makes.
Plunge and balcony bras for a fuller bust
Cup size does change things. With a larger bust, the breasts are often close together, and in either style there's a real chance of falling out of the bra when you bend over.
If you're fuller busted, it's worth investing in a brand that specialises in larger sizes. They use a different structure for bigger cups, designed to support and contain the bust properly, rather than simply scaling up a bra made for a smaller size.
From a G cup upwards, I'm less likely to reach for a plunge or a balcony at all. Most of my customers in those sizes prefer the security of a full cup bra. If you're weighing that up, our guide to half cup vs full cup bras will help.
My favourite plunge and balcony bras
Aubade is known for its balcony bras, and for good reason. They're designed to push the bust forward and up, so it can feel as though your breasts are sitting on a shelf. The effect is very glamorous, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend them for everyday wear.
For a balcony bra you can wear day in, day out, Marie Jo makes some lovely padded styles that work under everything. My favourites are the Avero padded balcony bra and the Jane Padded Balcony Bra.
For plunge bras, I love Aubade's Sheer Emotion padded plunge. Marie Jo also does really nice plunge T-shirt bras, along with non-padded plunge options if you prefer an unlined cup.
Which is more comfortable, and what to wear them under
Neither style is more comfortable across the board. It depends entirely on the person, how your breasts sit, and the composition of your breast tissue, which is why the same bra can feel wonderful on one woman and wrong on another.
Necklines are simpler. A plunge is the one to wear under lower-cut tops and V-necks, where a balcony would show. A balcony bra can be worn under almost anything.
Try more than one brand
Customers are often surprised by how much difference the right style makes, but the brand matters just as much. Every make is cut differently, so if one plunge or balcony bra hasn't worked for you, don't write off the style. Try a few brands before you decide.
If you'd like help finding the right one, book a fitting with us at Plums Lingerie in St Helier, or take a look at our guide to bra styles to see how plunge and balcony compare with every other shape.
