Full briefs, high-waisted briefs, Rio briefs, Italian briefs, tangas, thongs, shorties... that's a lot of names for something so small. And lingerie brands don't always agree on what each one means, which doesn't help.
We've been fitting women in the shop for over 20 years, and we don't think there's one "right" style for anyone. Most of our customers wear different shapes for different days. A seamless brief under work trousers, then an embroidered Italian brief to go with a bra they love. What matters more than the name on the label is that they fit well, stay put and don't dig in.
Here's how we'd describe each style.
High-Waisted Briefs
A high-waisted brief comes up to around your belly button and gives full coverage at the front and back. There's a bit of a vintage feel to a proper high waist, but plenty of modern versions look anything but old-fashioned. You'll find them in plain microfibre, sheer lace and heavy embroidery.
They suit anyone who likes more coverage, or who simply finds a higher waistband more comfortable.
Full Briefs
People often use "full brief" and "high-waisted brief" to mean the same thing. We'd usually expect a full brief to sit a little lower, just under the belly button rather than on your natural waist. You still get good coverage at the back.
And "full brief" doesn't have to mean sensible. Some of the most beautiful pieces we stock are full briefs in lace and embroidery.
Rio and Midi Briefs
A Rio (or midi) brief sits above the hip bone but below a full brief. It's a good middle ground if you want more coverage than a skimpier style without anything coming up over your tummy. The back is usually opaque and fully covers your bottom.
Italian Briefs
The front of an Italian brief is often cut much like a Rio. The difference is usually at the back, where you'll get lace, embroidery or sheer fabric instead of a solid panel.
Customers tend to choose these when they're buying something a bit special. Someone picking up a plain beige T-shirt bra will usually go for a simple or seamless brief to match. Show them a beautifully embroidered bra, though, and an Italian brief with a lace back suddenly looks a lot more appealing.
That's partly why we don't believe in having "your" knicker style. What you reach for depends as much on the bra or outfit you're wearing as on what you usually like.
Thongs, Tangas and G-Strings
This is where the names get really muddled.
Most people say "thong" for anything with very little fabric at the back. Brands, on the other hand, often split these into thongs, tangas and strings, and they don't all draw the lines in the same place.
As a rough guide, a tanga is a bit wider and covers slightly more at the back. A G-string is the most minimal, with very thin sides and back. A thong sits somewhere in between, though what each brand calls it varies.
You'll also see "Brazilian brief" used for all sorts of different cuts, so it's always worth looking at the garment itself rather than going by the name.
Despite all the articles telling women they ought to wear thongs, plenty of women just don't like them. If you find them uncomfortable, don't wear them.
Shorties, Boyshorts and Hotpants
These get mixed up too, but they are different.
A shorty is usually cut fairly square and covers most of your bottom. Boyshorts are longer, coming down over the bottom cheek like a tiny pair of shorts. Hotpants are a skimpier take on that shorts shape, with less coverage.
Again, every brand does these slightly differently, so check the actual cut rather than trusting the label.
What Are Seamless Knickers?
Seamless (or invisible) briefs are made to cut down on lines showing through your clothes.
Brands do this in a few ways. Some fabrics can be laser cut for a very flat edge, and others are bonded or glued rather than stitched. The fabric itself makes a difference, too. Silk and cotton generally need stitching at the edge. Lace can be woven to finish very flat, and folded tulle sits surprisingly smoothly against the body. So a brief doesn't need a laser-cut edge to disappear under clothes.
One thing to keep in mind is that seamless doesn't mean invisible. If they're too tight, seamless knickers will still dig in and leave a line. The colour you choose makes a difference as well.
What Colour Knickers Should You Wear Under White?
We see this one a lot: white knickers under white clothes. Put white seamless briefs under white linen trousers and there's a good chance they'll show through.
You want a shade that blends into your skin, which is what "nude" is supposed to mean. It isn't one particular beige. It's whatever's closest to your own skin tone.
Something that surprises a lot of our customers is that scarlet often works really well under white and shows far less than you'd expect.
Whatever colour you go for, try your knickers on under the actual outfit before you leave the house. Don't assume "seamless" or "white" means they won't show.
How Should Knickers Fit?
Fit matters more than whichever style you pick.
A good pair should stay where they are all day, without you having to hitch them up or rearrange them.
Going up a size won't necessarily make them more comfortable, either. Knickers that are too big can let the gusset slip out of place and the fabric move around or ride up. Too small, and they'll dig in, leave lines and feel uncomfortable.
Like bras (we've covered that in the most common bra fitting questions), knicker sizes aren't standard between brands, so a 12 in one might fit quite differently from a 12 in another. Try them on if you can. You can put them on over your own underwear to check the fit hygienically.
Does Fabric Make a Difference?
Yes, quite a lot. How much a fabric stretches changes how the knickers fit and how they feel. Different fabrics also need different seams and finishes, which affect comfort and how much shows under your clothes.
That's why two pairs that look almost identical can feel completely different once they're on. Look at the fabric, the stretch and how they're finished, not just the style name.
Which Knicker Style Is Best?
Honestly, there isn't a best one. We'd be wary of anyone who tells you your age or body shape means you should be wearing a particular style.
There are practical reasons to choose one over another. Seamless briefs under fitted trousers, a full brief for extra coverage day to day, a thong if you don't want fabric across your bottom, or an embroidered Italian brief simply because it looks lovely with the matching bra. A lot of it just comes down to what you like.
It's hard to go far wrong with knickers. Get the fit right, make sure they're comfortable, think about what you're wearing over them, and then pick whatever makes you feel good.
