One of the questions we get asked regularly in the shop is what's the difference between silk and satin nightwear. And the first thing to clear up is that silk and satin aren't actually opposites.
There's a lot of confusion around the terminology. Customers often come in asking for a silk nightie when what they really mean is that they want something silky, smooth and shiny. Then they're sometimes surprised by the difference in price between what we'd call a satin chemise and a genuine silk one.
The simple explanation is that silk is a fibre, while satin describes the way a fabric is woven. Satin can be made from silk, polyester or other fibres. You can even find historic examples of satin combining silk with cotton, which is a good illustration of why the word "satin" on its own doesn't tell you what a garment is actually made from.
In the shop, when we talk about a satin nightie, we generally mean polyester satin. When we're talking about silk satin, we mean satin made from silk. And there is a difference.
Can You Tell the Difference Between Silk and Polyester Satin?
Absolutely. Having sold nightwear for more than 20 years, I've watched this happen countless times in the fitting room. A customer will take several nighties in to try, perhaps starting with a polyester satin chemise. She likes it, it looks lovely, and there's nothing wrong with it at all.
Then she puts the silk one on.
You can often see the difference in her expression before she even says anything. Good silk is incredibly soft and just glides over the skin. There's a beautiful fluidity to it, and it doesn't have the static you sometimes get with polyester satin. Quality silk satin also has a softer, more subtle lustre rather than an excessively shiny finish. It simply feels luxurious.
That's probably one of the reasons we find that once customers start buying silk nightwear, they tend to keep buying it. They like sleeping in it, they like how it feels against their skin, and they'd often rather invest in one beautiful silk chemise occasionally than have ten polyester satin nighties sitting in the drawer.
Is Satin Always Cheaper Than Silk?
Usually, but quality matters enormously. You can buy a lovely polyester satin nightie with lace for under £100, whereas good-quality silk is considerably more expensive.
But I wouldn't automatically say that anything made from silk is better than anything made from polyester. There is good and bad silk, just as there is good and bad polyester. A poor-quality silk garment can lose its lustre relatively quickly and may not stand up particularly well to wear and washing. If you're going to spend the money on silk, it's worth buying good silk.
Likewise, a high-quality polyester satin can feel lovely, hold its shape extremely well and last for years. So don't dismiss something simply because the label says polyester.
How Can You Spot Good-Quality Nightwear?
Fabric is only part of it. Cut and construction make an enormous difference.
With a quality silk chemise, I look at the finishing. You'd expect beautifully finished seams, often French seams rather than simply stitching and overlocking the edges.
Then I look at the lace. If you're buying expensive silk nightwear with lace, that lace should justify the price too. Some of the beautiful pieces we sell use high-quality French lace, including lace produced in Calais. It may be wider, more intricate and used much more generously than on a cheaper garment.
Hardware should complement the garment beautifully, and the whole thing should look considered. Most importantly, the cut should be excellent.
I've seen expensive designer silk nightwear that I don't think justifies its price. Sometimes you're paying for the name rather than the quality of the garment. I've generally found that some of the best silk nightwear comes from brands that specialise in lingerie, nightwear or silk. They're experts in making these garments rather than fashion houses producing a bit of everything.
Silk Satin vs Polyester Satin: How Do They Fit?
This is where the cut matters just as much as the fabric.
A bias-cut chemise is cut diagonally across the fabric rather than straight along the grain. That gives it a lovely fluid quality that allows it to follow the shape of your body. A beautiful bias-cut silk chemise can almost wrap itself around you.
But that doesn't necessarily mean a bias cut is the most flattering choice for everyone. If, for example, you're conscious of your tummy, a bias-cut nightdress can sometimes follow that area rather more closely than you'd like. The same applies whether it's made from silk or polyester. A straighter cut will fall differently.
That's why I'm a great believer in trying nightwear on rather than assuming a particular fabric or style is automatically going to suit you. The most expensive chemise in the shop isn't necessarily the one that's going to look best on your body.
Is Silk Better to Sleep In?
For me, yes, but part of that is simply because I love how it feels.
Silk is a natural protein fibre and is hygroscopic, meaning it can take up moisture, which helps explain why it feels so comfortable against the skin. I tend to find silk feels cool when you first put it on, yet it's comfortable at different times of year.
Polyester behaves differently, and performance varies considerably according to how the fabric has been engineered, so I'd be wary of some of the sweeping claims you see online that one fabric will magically solve night sweats or regulate your body temperature. If you want to go deeper on which fabrics genuinely help on warm nights, I've written more about that in what nightwear to wear to bed on hot nights.
For everyday purposes, there's a much simpler question: which one feels nicest to you? For me, that's silk. I love putting it on, I love sleeping in it, and it makes me feel rather luxurious. Sometimes that's enough of a reason to buy it.
Is Silk Nightwear Difficult to Wash?
People make looking after silk sound much more complicated than it needs to be. My main piece of advice is very simple: don't put it in the washing machine.
I know your fancy Miele has a hand-wash programme. I still wouldn't. If you've spent a significant amount on a beautiful silk chemise, hand washing it puts you in control and avoids unnecessary mechanical stress on the fabric. Silk can be vulnerable to damage from inappropriate cleaning and handling, particularly as it ages.
For the silk nightwear we sell, I recommend:
- Use warm rather than hot water
- Use a detergent designed for delicate fabrics — we use Soak
- Gently swish the garment around and leave it to soak for around 15 minutes
- Don't wring or twist it
- Gently squeeze out the excess water
- Hang it up to dry
- Keep different colours separate when washing in case any dye runs
- Follow the individual garment's care label, particularly with silk blends, lace or unusual trims
Silk dries surprisingly quickly, and yes, it generally needs a little ironing. But good-quality silk is remarkably easy to iron. A quick run over with a warm iron, following the care label, and you're done.
If you're reading that thinking "absolutely not, I am never hand washing and ironing a nightie," then I'd suggest you buy polyester. There's no point spending hundreds of pounds on silk and then resenting the fact that you have to look after it.
Is Polyester Satin Easier to Look After?
This is one of polyester satin's biggest advantages. Generally, it's much easier to wash and wear, although you should still follow the manufacturer's care instructions. It tends to crease less, and you don't have the same commitment to looking after it that comes with a really beautiful silk garment.
It's also an excellent option if you love prints. There are some fabulous printed polyester satin nightwear collections, and you can get something that looks glamorous and feels lovely without spending silk prices.
A good polyester satin shouldn't automatically feel cheap or plasticky either. There's an enormous difference between inexpensive, overly shiny polyester and a beautifully made satin fabric.
How Do I Know If I'm Buying Real Silk Online?
This is where I think shoppers need to be particularly careful.
If you want genuine silk, look at the fibre composition. Don't rely on the photograph or the word "satin." If something says "silky," "silk feel" or similar, that does not mean it contains silk.
If it says silk blend, find out exactly what the blend is. There's nothing inherently wrong with blends. We sell beautiful devoré nightwear using silk and viscose, for example, and a small percentage of elastane can give silk a little stretch, which can work really well in nightwear. But you should know what you're paying for. If you're specifically looking for pure silk, look for 100% silk in the composition.
I'd also be particularly cautious on online marketplaces. Check the reviews. If previous customers are saying they bought something advertised as silk and it clearly wasn't, pay attention. And use some common sense around price. Proper, good-quality silk is expensive to produce. If you've found a supposedly luxurious 100% silk and lace chemise for an extraordinarily low price, I'd be asking questions.
Is Expensive Silk Nightwear Worth the Money?
It can be. A good silk nightdress that's properly looked after can last for years. It retains its colour beautifully, feels wonderful and, importantly, it's something you can genuinely enjoy wearing rather than saving for a special occasion.
But I don't think everyone needs one. If you love beautiful fabrics, appreciate how silk feels and don't mind spending a few minutes looking after it properly, quality silk nightwear is one of those luxuries that can genuinely be worth paying for.
If you're going to chuck it in the washing machine with everything else, don't buy it. Buy a really nice polyester satin chemise instead.
So, Should You Choose Silk or Satin Nightwear?
My advice after more than 20 years of selling nightwear is not to get too hung up on the idea that one is "good" and the other is "bad."
Choose silk if:
- You particularly value how a fabric feels against your skin
- You want something luxurious that you'll enjoy wearing for years
- You're prepared to hand wash and look after it
- You're happy to invest in a genuinely good-quality garment
Choose polyester satin if:
- You want the silky, glamorous look at a lower price
- You want something easier to wash and care for
- You don't particularly enjoy ironing
- You love prints and want more choice
- You simply don't feel enough of a difference to justify paying silk prices
And that last point is important. If you try on polyester satin and love it, you don't need to spend the extra money on silk just because somebody tells you it's better.
But if you put a beautiful silk chemise on and have that little fitting-room moment I've seen hundreds of times, where you touch the fabric, look in the mirror and immediately understand why it costs more, you may find it very difficult to go back. You can browse our full range in the silk nightwear collection.
