If you've ever found an underwired bra uncomfortable, you've probably wondered whether a wireless bra would solve the problem. No wire digging in, so surely it has to be more comfortable?
Not necessarily.
We've been fitting bras at Plums Lingerie for over 20 years, and I've lost count of the women who came in ready to give up on underwires, only to find the wire was never the problem. It was the size, the style or the quality of the bra they'd been wearing.
Wireless bras certainly have their place, and I have a few in my own lingerie drawer. But if you can wear an underwired bra comfortably, there are some very good reasons why I'd usually recommend one.
How Each Type Supports You
Most of the support in a well-fitted bra comes from the band around your rib cage, not the straps. In an underwired bra, the wire adds a firm frame underneath each breast, lifting your bust from the point where it meets your chest. It shapes and separates too.
Because the wire does so much of the work, you can have delicate lace, plunging necklines and fine embroidery that still hold you beautifully, even in fuller cup sizes.
A wireless bra has to manage without that frame, so it relies on the stretch and construction of the fabric instead. That's why good wireless styles often have a wider band and more coverage. They can still give you lift, but the shape is softer and more natural rather than sculpted.
Are Wireless Bras More Comfortable?
This is the biggest misconception I come across in the fitting room. A badly fitting wireless bra can be just as uncomfortable as a badly fitting underwired one.
If you have a heavier bust and your wireless bra isn't supporting you properly around the band, that weight has to go somewhere, and it usually ends up on your shoulders.
So when someone tells me they want to switch to wireless, I like to find out what's actually causing the discomfort. Sometimes the wire genuinely is the issue, and some women simply prefer not to wear one, which is fine. More often, it's the fit.
A well-fitting, good-quality underwired bra shouldn't be uncomfortable. You should be able to put it on in the morning and forget about it until you take it off at night.
Why Do Underwires Dig In?
The wire should sit around your breast tissue, never on it. When it digs in, there's usually one of three reasons.
The most common is cups that are too small. If the cup can't hold all your breast tissue, the wire ends up resting on the breast itself, and that hurts.
The second is a wire sitting too low. It should sit right in the fold where your breast meets your rib cage. Any lower and it isn't lifting from underneath, and some breast tissue ends up pressed against the wire. Leaning forward and settling everything into the cup can make a surprising difference.
The third is the wire itself. In cheaper bras, wires tend to be flatter and less well padded. PrimaDonna, on the other hand, uses a patented wire with a slight curve, so it follows the shape of your rib cage rather than pressing a straight edge into it, and it's coated and padded for comfort. You'll feel the difference by the end of the day.
Style matters as well as size. The same 34E can feel completely different in a plunge and a full cup, so if one shape has never worked for you, our guide to the different types of bra and who they suit is a good place to start.
Do Underwired Bras Give Better Support?
Generally, yes, and the difference grows the fuller your bust, simply because there's more weight to support. A good wireless bra can manage it, but it tends to need a wider band, sturdier fabric and more coverage. An underwired bra gives you the same support while looking much lighter.
Plenty of women with larger busts do wear wireless, and there are some excellent designs. But if you've written off underwires because of past discomfort, have your size checked first. And if plunge styles in particular have let you down, here's why your plunge bra might not fit, and how to fix it.
When a Wireless Bra Is the Better Choice
On a long-haul flight, when you're sitting for hours trying to get comfortable, something soft and unstructured makes a lot of sense. I also like a soft bralette on a Sunday when I'm mooching around the house. And if your breasts feel tender at night, a gentle, non-restrictive wireless bra can help.
There are also times when underwires simply aren't appropriate, such as after surgery to the breast or chest area, or for other medical reasons. I'd never try to persuade anyone otherwise, and after surgery you should always follow your medical team's advice on what to wear and when.
Can Wireless Bras Be Pretty?
They can, although the choice is more limited. Too many are big, stretchy beige affairs that don't exactly bring you joy.
One lovely exception is the PrimaDonna Montara bralette. It looks as though it was designed to be beautiful from the start, rather than an underwired bra with the wires taken out. It has a pretty triangle shape, a slightly wider band and attractive lace, gives decent separation (not easy without wires) and supports you without putting too much weight on your shoulders.
How to Decide
Think about what you want your bra to do. Are you after lift and a defined shape, or a softer, more natural line? Is it for every day or for relaxing at home? And have underwires been uncomfortable because of the wire itself, or could it have been the fit?
If you can, try both styles in the right size. Notice how the band feels, whether the straps are carrying too much and how the bra feels when you move, not just how it looks in the mirror.
You don't have to choose one or the other, either. An underwired bra for work, something pretty in lace for going out and a soft bralette for the weekend can all sit happily in the same drawer.
If you can comfortably wear both, I'll generally recommend underwired for the support, the shaping and the sheer choice of beautiful designs. But the best bra is the one that feels comfortable, gives you the support you need and makes you feel good when you put it on.
Come In for a Free Bra Fitting
Not sure your bras are fitting as well as they should? Pop into Plums Lingerie at 7 La Colomberie, St Helier. We offer free bra fittings with no appointment needed, and we'll help you find something, wired or wireless, that looks and feels right. Can't get to the shop? You can browse our full collection at plumslingerie.com.
